One hundred and fifty years ago, William Steinberger came to Victoria in search of gold, but instead made his fortune on honey-brown liquid – beer.

The German immigrant set up a brewery in a small log building near Swan Lake, bought surplus grain from the Puget Sound Agricultural Company – whose supply was mounting with the ceasing of orders from Russia due to the Crimean war – and grew hops in his backyard. The commercial brewery was the first one west of the Great Lakes and started a strong beer culture in Victoria, concluded Greg Evans, Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) member.

CAMRA executives, other beer aficionados and representatives of the German Canadian Cultural Society gathered at Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub and Guesthouse last weekend to mark the occasion by quaffing a few cold ones.

Until the mid-to-late 1970s, five breweries called Victoria home. At that time the larger breweries – Labatt’s, Molson and Carling – dominated the scene. In 1981 the last brewery in Victoria, in fact on the Island, closed. It was a scenario happening across the country, Evans said.

But beer drinkers united. Led by thirsty folks in the Capital Region, a revolution brought back the local brewer. “People wanted variety and they saw variety disappearing,” Evans said.

When Spinnakers opened in 1983, it was the first brew pub in Canada. Vancouver Island Brewery followed in 1984, spawning a growth in the microbrewery field.

Barry Fisher, now president of Vancouver Island Brewery, joined the company a year after its opening. At the time, he recalls, unemployment was high and a brewery seemed like a good way to give back to the community.

“(Breweries) are what are known as a recession-proof industry,” he said, laughing.

Now six microbreweries dot the Island. More competition brings about new recipes, he added. Many Island microbreweries have won golden recognition for their taste.

Yummm, here’s to Steinberger.

raldous@vicnews.com