most recipes for zuppa alla Pavese begin with chicken broth. Photo Submitted
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ShareLegendary Italian soup endures through history
By Tracy Marks - Comox Valley Record
Published: September 23, 2008 3:00 PM
Updated: October 06, 2008 1:53 PM
There have been many, many unusual, even idiosyncratic, recipes to emerge throughout the long history of food preparation.
Some arose, quite literally, from the ground in a particular part of the world. Some are grand ideas that speak of the cultures that created them. And some come to us with fantastic stories attached.
The latter is the case with a modest, yet supremely comforting, recipe from Northern Italy known as zuppa alla Pavese.
The dish supposedly dates all the way back to the Renaissance; in fact, to Feb. 24, 1525 in a small village in Lombardia.
It was a time of massive upheaval in Central Europe, and on this date, a battle raged between French, Spanish, Swiss, and Austrian forces that would eventually decide Italy’s northern border with Switzerland.
The man defeated at the famous battle of Pavia was none other than King Francis the First of France.
As the legend goes, in a pause between clashes, a nearly exhausted Francis led his army through the small village of San Genesio where the king dismounted and entered a farmhouse to ask for food.
With little to offer a monarch, the quick-thinking villager whose house had been singled out dressed up some broth that she was boiling on her stove by adding fried bread, cheese, and an egg.
Francis was restored enough to continue forward, only to meet his eventual defeat at the hands of Spanish forces.
The simple dish, however, went down in history and has survived to this day.
Most recipes for zuppa alla Pavese begin with chicken broth. A piece of toast is placed into a bowl and topped with a fried egg.
The broth is ladled on and the whole thing is garnished with a little grated cheese.
A few subtle variations elevate the soup to one of the all-time great comfort foods to come down through history from lowly, peasant beginnings.
Zuppa alla Pavese
6 servings
• 3 Tbsp. (45 ml) olive oil
• 2 large leeks, washed and chopped
• 1 tsp. (5 ml) each of dried thyme and savoury
• 8 cups (2 L) water
• salt and pepper
• 6 thick slices of bread
• about 4 Tbsp. (60 ml) butter
• 12 eggs
• 6 Tbsp. (90 ml) grated Parmesan
Warm the olive oil in a large pot and sauté the leeks and herbs over medium heat, stirring often, until very soft, about 20 minutes. Add the water, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer half an hour. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, in a large frypan, fry the bread quickly in butter until golden brown on both sides but still soft inside. Put a slice of bread into each of 6 large soup bowls. Break 2 eggs very carefully into each bowl and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.
Bring the stock to a rapid boil and swiftly but carefully pour a ladleful into each bowl, taking care not to break the eggs. Let the stock continue boiling as you work. It is important for the stock to be boiling hot in order to cook the eggs. Allow the eggs to set and serve immediately.
Do you have a cooking question? Send it to Tracy.In.The.Kitchen@gmail.com.
Tracy Marks has worked as chef and baker in hotels, catering kitchens and restaurants for more than 15 years. His column appears every Wednesday.
