Sun-worshippers will soon be lured away to hang loose in the Hawaiian Islands while the barometer drops in BC.

Despite my dedication to sun, sea, and sand, my aim during a recently holiday was to ferret out more out of Maui’s hidden charms.

For a change of pace friends and I headed for a visit to the Tedeschi Vineyards where pineapple wines are the specialty. Ah…now I have your attention.

Maui’s solitary winery is perched 2,000 feet up the lush rolling slopes around base of the Haleakela Crater (also known as the House of Sun) about an hour’s drive from Ka’anapali or Lahaina area. Known as the Ulupalakua region, the drive is easy and pleasant with stunning views across the West Maui Mountains through country previously used for growing sugar.

With a busy bottling plant and popular tasting room on the property the little winery was bustling and welcoming the day I visited. Surrounded by sweeping gardens, it sports it’s own brand of history. I was delighted to find out that 'Ulupalakua loosely translates to "breadfruit ripened on the back." The story goes that an ancient Hawaiian chief would send his messengers to Hana for breadfruit. By the time they had completed their trek their delicious cargo would have ripened. Since Hawaiian was simply a verbal language until the missionaries arrived, one can assume the story may have been re-crafted over the years.

What is known however is that in 1856 Captain James Makee moved from his plantation on the Big Island to his new Maui home, "Rose Ranch”. The ranch (now the location of the Tedeschi Vineyards quickly became known for its hospitality and agriculture.

In 1874 King Kalakaua and his Queen Kapi'olani visited Rose Ranch, became enchanted with the property, and a cottage was built there for him. Known as Hawai'i's ‘Merrie Monarch’, his poker games, and taste for champagne were legendary. No doubt he would be pleased to know that his cottage is now the winery tasting room where visitors lounge over the gleaming 5m bar crafted from a single mango tree.

Six Tedeschi still wines and three sparkling wines are available. Three are pineapple wines, three grape-based wines, and a delicious raspberry framboise that I took a shine to. I imagined a few drops drizzled over ice cream…definitely something to try.

"It's like we're lone rangers out here," said owner Paula Hegele. "We really are trailblazers. There's no history of winemaking here. We started with an idea, and backtracked to see what would work best In Hawaii."

Tours of the property and bottling plant are combined with a warm welcome. It was a perfect way to while away a warm, sunny afternoon with friends - and was every bit a relaxing as tanning on the beach. The wines are great souvenirs to bring home too.

Early mornings and late afternoon at this altitude can be cool, so bring a sweater. If you come around lunchtime bring a picnic and relax under the winery’s 100-year-old trees. The tasting room is open daily from 9 am to 5 p.m.

Moving down to the ‘skirt’ of Haleakela we discovered the charming Ali’i Kula Lavender Farm gardens.

Over 55,000 lavender plants flourish on ten and half acres where a walking tour educated me on lavender and local plant life. Lavender grower and ‘guardian’, Ali'i Chang, proudly oversees the protection and production of 45 different varieties of lavender, as well as olive trees, protea, hydrandrea, bottle brush plants, and unique wreaths made of assorted aloe.

Lavender is a herb relative to the mint family, and is not native to Maui, yet it flourishes in masses year round at the farm. In the warmth of the late afternoon we kicked back sipping lavender tea, nibbled lavender scones dressed with assorted local honeys while overlooking the lush slopes of Haleakala.

Lavender is considered to generate comfort, relaxation, and serenity. Its fragrance is reputed to calm nerves, relieve stress, tension, anxiety, and bring on an overall feeling of well-being. I couldn’t argue with that.

If you happen to be planning to take the family to Maui for Easter next year make a note attend the Celebration of the Arts organized by Hawaiian historian Charles Kaupu. Held annually at the Ritz Carleton the event is a three-day celebration that will give you some insight into the arts, culture, and ancient customs of Hawaii.

In the chilly grey dawn of Good Friday I joined Kaupu and other dedicated kanaka maol (native Hawaiians) for the Hiuwai and E Ala E Sunrise Protocol, a ritual cleansing in the surf. 'Now is time for silence,” booms Kaupu. Encouraging us to reflect on the past, leave ‘the bad’ behind and dedicate ourselves to a better future as the surf swirls around us. The water is invigorating and reinforces the intended message. Food for body and soul true to the tradition of Polynesia. Someone quietly begins to chant. The pink-tinged sky hints that the sun is on it’s way. It’s a peaceful, serene and all rather comforting - an experience to remember and value. I make friends with a sturdy towel-wrapped child, his grandmother smiles and hugs me, and I think of my prairie grandsons. “A new day has begun,” says Kaupu.

For the rest of weekend I try my hand at lei-making, bead stringing and discussing local handicrafts with Maui artisans. The evening is, of course, complete only after a luau and an irresistible hula show.

Only steps away the spirits of old Polynesians slumber in the Hanokahua Burial site unearthed when the hotel was being built.

My departure was imminent. It was time to go home. I was beginning to like a local…the magic of the Hawaiian islands was working…

For more information on all aspects of Maui go to: www.visitmaui.com or see you local travel agent

Ursula Maxwell-Lewis is a travel writer,photographer and a director of the Travel Media Association of Canada. Reach her at utravel@shaw.ca or on Twitter under YouTravel

v2