Thinking of something a little different for Thanksgiving dinner this year?

Better be careful.

Traditional holiday menus tend to get carved into stone in the minds and memories of family and friends. Attempts to drop a favourite dish for a year in order to audition some new-fangled notion can incite choruses of howls around the holiday table.

After all, we have precious few customs in these times, and foods are amongst our fondest.

There are a few places on the Thanksgiving menu where cooks can safely exercise a little creativity. A new recipe for a vegetable side-dish or bread usually garners compliments. Just don’t try to omit the Brussels sprouts.

And how about a fresh dessert idea?

Pumpkin pie always sets the standard, but it is no longer trotted out only at Thanksgiving dinner. People now whip up pumpkin pies year-round.

Put a fresh spin on the old favourite with this luxurious show-stopper cheesecake. While you elevate Thanksgiving dessert to a new level of decadence, the traditionalists in the crowd will relish the familiar flavour of spiced pumpkin.

You might even give rise to a new annual custom.

Pumpkin

Cheesecake

Crust:

• 9 whole graham crackers (about 4 ounces), broken

• 1/4 cup (65 ml) sugar

• 1 tsp. (5 ml) ground cinnamon

• 1/4 cup (65 ml) butter, melted

Filling:

• 4 – 8 oz. packages (1K total) cream cheese, room temperature

• 1 1/2 cups (375 ml) sugar

• 3 large eggs

• 15 oz. (425 ml) can pure pumpkin

• 1 cup (250 ml) whipping cream

• 1 cup (250 ml) very finely minced candied ginger

• 2 tsp. (10 ml) vanilla extract

• 2 tsp. (10 ml) ground cinnamon

• 1 tsp. (5 ml) ground ginger

• 1/2 tsp. (3 ml) ground nutmeg

• 1/2 tsp. (3 ml) ground allspice

• 1/4 tsp. (2 ml) ground cloves

Topping:

• 2 cups (500 ml) whipping cream

• 4 Tbsp. (60 ml) sugar

• 2 tsp. (10 ml) vanilla

• 1 tsp. (5 ml) cinnamon

• 1/2 tsp. (3 ml) ground cardamom

For the crust, position a rack in the centre of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Wrap a double layer of heavy-duty foil around the outside of a 10-inch springform pan.

Combine the graham crackers, sugar, and cinnamon in a food processor. Blend until the crackers are very finely ground. Drizzle the butter over. Using on/off turns, blend until the crumbs begin to stick together. Press the crumbs onto the bottom, but not the sides, of the springform pan. Bake until the crust is light golden, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a rack and cool while preparing the filling.

For the filling, beat the cream cheese and sugar in a large bowl with an electric mixer until smooth and fluffy. Beat in the eggs 1 at a time. Add the pumpkin and remaining filling ingredients. Beat just until blended. Pour the filling onto the prepared crust. Place the springform pan in a large roasting pan and add enough water to come halfway up the sides of the pan.

Bake the cheesecake until it is slightly puffed and softly set, and the top is golden, about 1 1/2 hours. Transfer to a rack and cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Using a knife, cut around the sides of pan to loosen the cake. Release the springform ring and place onto a serving plate.

Whip the cream with the remaining ingredients and mound on top of the cake.

Do you have a cooking question? Send it to Tracy.In.The.Kitchen@gmail.com.

Tracy Marks has worked as chef and baker in hotels, catering kitchens and restaurants for more than 15 years.

His column appears every Wednesday.