Keepers of the pub
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Updated: July 09, 2009 11:38 AM
After 25 years, the owner of Spinnakers Gastrobrewpub and Guesthouses remembers when he was the new kid on the block.
“When we got started here in 1984 we were the first neighborhood pub in Victoria,” recalls Paul Hadfield.
“We’ve been very fortunate over the years that the local neighborhood and others embraced us and we’re incredibly grateful for that.”
The concept started simply enough.
An evening of drinking unique beers from England collectively raised a question in minds of Hadfield and then-partner John Mitchell — why can’t we buy this beer here?
“There was room in the marketplace to discover new tastes and create beers that we simply did not have access to,” says Hadfield.
Hadfield calls Mitchell, who created Canada’s first brewpub at the Troller Pub in Horseshoe Bay, “the grandfather of Canadian craft brewing in the modern age.”
And, after that evening, the mission was set to find the right spot to create a similar establishment in Victoria.
There was a location in Lime Bay with south-facing views on the waterfront that was not only affordable, but the brewpub concept was supported by the local community of Victoria West, which at the time was a community in need of some rehabilitating.
In fact, being part of the redevelopment made the idea all that much more enticing to the pair.
However, it wasn’t so easy to get local, provincial and federal governments to see the path from concept to product quite so easily.
But Hadfield — a self-described problem solver — wasn’t deterred by initial governmental malaise that threatened to pour cold water on the recipe.
They kept the momentum rolling and, after 18 months from idea to opening in May 1984, Spinnakers was a reality.
Victorians were anxious for a new experience and, in the days leading up to the opening, eager kayakers ran time trials to see how fast they could get across the Inner Harbour to Spinnakers.
On opening day, people lined up to be a part of Spinnaker’s epicurean history.
“Because of the support of the community, we were able to keep the doors open and that gave us the opportunity to really make this a place where people felt at home,” says Hadfield.
“They have helped make this a place that is quintessential Victoria — a place that local people bring their friends to show off what Victoria is all about.”
The initial creations by Mitchell became legendary in the industry.
Today, Spinnakers brewers craft benchmarks of classic-style ales, lagers and seasonal specialty beers using only the finest ingredients, pure aquifer water and time-honoured Old-World brewing techniques.
At any time, eight to 10 styles of the pub’s annual range of up to 25 styles are on tap.
“We’re proud to be craft brewers and we’re proud to be part of such an innovative fraternity,” says Hadfield.
“There are always new flavours to explore and new beers to be made. There are always new boundaries to be pushed.”
The new approach to beer meant a new approach to food, as well so the standards for Spinnakers brewpub burgers, fresh fish and chips and mile-high apple pies were set high and made fresh.
Spinnakers was one of the first Victoria restaurants using fresh Vancouver Island ingredients.
From organic local produce to brewery grain-fed Highland beef and local turkey, wild Pacific salmon and Pacific halibut — along with free-range eggs — Spinnakers is a strong promoter of the island’s burgeoning artisan industry.
Spinnakers has also opened a guesthouse offering private rooms in an 1884 heritage house and garden suites in an adjoining building.
After 25 years, what does success come down to?
“Gratitude and hard work,” says Hadfield.
“We’re grateful for the customers and community for standing by us and that they’ve truly made this their place.
“We’re grateful for the growers and artisans of this special place that allow us to do the things we do. We’ve had challenges, we’ve had some luck — but we have a lot of fun.”
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